The Depths of Elegance: The Yema Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 Collection

Here at The Coolector, we have a deep-seated appreciation for a proper tool watch. The rugged, no-nonsense heritage of a dive watch is something we’ll always get behind. But what happens when you take that bulletproof DNA and decide to make it… beautiful? We’re not just talking a polished edge here; we’re talking high-end, artistic, and mechanically sophisticated.

That’s the high-wire act French watchmakers Yema have just pulled off, and frankly, they’ve nailed it. Their new Yema Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 Collection isn’t just a new watch; it’s a statement piece that redefines the “sporty-yet-elegant” category.

This isn’t your grandad’s Navygraf. Yema has taken its historic diver and given it a complete, top-to-bottom re-engineering. The first thing that hits you is the dial. Yema has eschewed the traditional matte black for something infinitely more captivating: natural mother-of-pearl. This iridescent material, crafted from seashells, means that no two dials are ever identical.

Each one shimmers with a unique spectrum of hues—silver, violet, and deep blues—that shift and dance with every movement of the wrist. It’s a mesmerising, one-of-a-kind canvas. But they didn’t stop there. In a move of pure design bravado, Yema has also crafted the bezel insert from mother-of-pearl, creating a seamless continuation of that organic, luminous texture.

To silence anyone worried about fragility, the entire bezel assembly is protected by a resin coating and capped with a scratch-resistant, double-domed sapphire crystal. It’s the perfect fusion of natural art and uncompromising durability.

The real headline for watch aficionados, however, lies beneath that stunning dial. The “CMM.20” in the name isn’t just jargon; it’s the designation for Yema’s in-house Manufacture micro-rotor calibre CMM.20. This is a massive leap into the world of serious horology. Designed, manufactured, and assembled by Yema’s own watchmakers in Morteau, France, this movement is a thing of beauty.

The micro-rotor, crafted from Tungsten, is not only rare and worthy of its own sapphire exhibition case-back, but its smart architecture allows for an ultra-thin calibre. This, in turn, allows for a sleeker, slimmer case. But it’s not just for looks; this is a high-performance engine, boasting a hefty 70-hour power reserve and regulated to a near-chronometric accuracy of -3/+7 seconds per day.

This new collection is presented in two distinct versions. First is the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20, priced at £2031. This is the core of the new line, a stunningly versatile 39mm timepiece that fits all wrists and makes a sophisticated statement, whether you’re in a dive suit or a dinner jacket.

It’s offered on either a new 316L stainless steel bracelet or a retro-style perforated FKM rubber strap. That new bracelet, by the way, features a clever on-the-fly micro-adjustment clasp, a premium feature that lets you instantly adapt the fit for comfort—no tools required.

For the collectors, Yema is also offering the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 Limited Edition. Priced at £2076 and limited to just 200 numbered pieces, this version takes the refinement even further.

The mother-of-pearl on this model shimmers with a different spectrum, introducing hints of vibrant turquoise blue alongside the silver and violet.

More importantly, this limited edition showcases the true potential of the CMM.20 movement by slimming the 39mm case down to under 10mm in thickness (with a comfortable 46mm lug-to-lug).

For a professional dive watch, that is an incredible feat of engineering, resulting in a timepiece that wears with the pure refinement of a classic dress watch, while still hiding the soul of a rugged tool.

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